Laayoune and the Moroccan Sahara: a practical guide
Laayoune is the largest city of the Moroccan Sahara and the gateway to a region few travellers know: Atlantic beaches backed by dunes, historic desert towns, wide stony plateaus and some of the most remote roads in Morocco. It is also Said’s home region, which is why we know it so well.
Getting to Laayoune
Laayoune Hassan I Airport (EUN) has flights from Casablanca and other cities, including connections with the Canary Islands. The airport is close to the city centre, and your driver can meet you in arrivals. By road, Laayoune is a long drive from Agadir through Guelmim and Tan-Tan, best split into two days with stops along the coast.
What to see from Laayoune
- The city: the Place du Mechouar, the markets and the everyday life of a Saharan city far from mass tourism.
- Foum El Oued and Laayoune Plage: the Atlantic coast just outside the city, where the desert meets the ocean.
- Tarfaya and Cape Juby: about 104 km north, with the Saint-Exupéry museum and the Casa del Mar.
- The Khnifiss lagoon: a protected coastal wetland north of Tarfaya, rich in birdlife.
- Smara: the historic city of the Sahara, about 220 km inland. See our Smara day trip.
- Dakhla: about 540 km south, a full day’s drive to the famous lagoon and kitesurfing spots.
Driving in the Moroccan Sahara
Distances are long and towns are far apart, so we plan fuel, water and rest stops in advance. Main roads are paved and in good condition; desert tracks need a proper 4×4, which is why we use a Dacia Duster on the roads and a Toyota Hilux or Prado off them. Police and military checkpoints are common in the south and are part of normal travel; keep your passport with you and your driver handles the rest.
When to visit
The coastal climate is mild for most of the year, cooled by the Atlantic trade winds. Inland, the desert is very hot in summer, so October to April is the most comfortable season for trips to Smara and the interior. Winter nights in the desert can be cold.
For expeditions on the old Paris-Dakar tracks, see our Sahara 4×4 tours.
